Planned Pooling

Seam Seam

Yarn colors
Color Length Fade starts here

Measuring. A color's length runs to where the next one goes pure. Slide to where the fade starts — full right is a sharp change.

Joining a new ball

Click the fabric where a ball ran out — after the tail you will weave in, not at the very end of the yarn — or type the row and stitch. You will be told where to begin in the next ball so the pattern carries on.

Gauge
Work it out from a swatch

Knit a sample, count what went into it, then measure it.

Construction
Rows and stitches

Rows written out stitch by stitch, like s *3k 3p*23 s — a slipped edge, then three knit and three purl repeated across.

Different stitches eat different amounts of yarn. These figures are rough starting points — measure your own to get real predictions.

Name Code Yarn per stitch

Now the rows. One entry per box. 3k means three knits. A * before a stitch opens a group and one after it closes the group, followed by how many times — so s *3k 3p*23 s is a 140 stitch row with slipped edges. Enter, space or Tab moves to the next box. The strip above counts stitches as you go; while a group is open it counts the group instead, and clears once you close it.

Rows are worked once unless you mark a repeat. Tick start on the first row of a block and end on the last, then say how many times — tick both on one row to repeat just that row. The pattern then states the whole fabric, so the stitch and row counts follow from it. Every row has to come out the same width.

Include the yarn used turning rows?

Cast on

Rough starting points, like the stitch figures. Calibration replaces both.

Calibration

The figures above are guesses. Knit a few small swatches, measure the yarn each one ate, and they become measurements instead. Say which stitches you use and how much knitting you are prepared to do, and you will be told exactly what to make.

Stitch Include Needs carrying

Swatches you are willing to knit

How many swatches

Measurements

A scale gives grams and the solver needs length, so the yarn has to convert one into the other. Measure a few known lengths, weigh them, and the line through those points is the conversion. Two pairs will do; more is better.

Length () Weight (g)

Both are subtracted from every measurement — yarn you held, not yarn the fabric ate. Asked separately because they rarely match.

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